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Behind the Eyes - Enhancing Eye Makeup Techniques

As superficial as some may view makeup, I’ve never met a woman who didn’t respond positively when her exterior was finessed. When our spirits sore, the inner beauty that expresses itself visually through us is untouchable. But sometimes we need a little help from outside to make that connection inwardly. One feeds the other. So go inside, but when you come out, don’t forget about your exterior window treatments.

Coloring your exterior:

That is the hundred-dollar question. What eye shadow color, how many colors, and where do I put them? Believe it or not less is sometimes more in this situation. More is more when it comes to winning the lottery, but too much makeup can detract from the features and instead of enhancing for romancing, the face looks like it was high jacked by a group of gay terrorists.

If you have mastered your own eyes with a simple, but effective eye design, then you are licensed to build on that premise and add more colors hence increasing dimension. But know the basics before you compete with “that girl” that’s sits at the next cubical.

One version of a basic, but beautiful eye needs two colors, one light and one dark for contrast. The darkest color usually takes the focus and attention of the eye treatment, therefore placement is everything. Most of us are privy to the fact that if you have slightly wide set eyes (Oprah) then you should focus the darkest color towards the middle and inner corner of your eyes.

If you are close set (Babs) then go in the other direction, softly putting emphasis on the outer corners. If I’m boring you I do apologies. So here are some universal, no brainer recipes that look good on most of us. Wide set girls please pass first diagram and go to 2A …Thank you.

Eye Make-up Technique 1A - Close set gals, and most of their pals - general population:
(The simplicity with this treatment works correctively with close-set bombshells or balanced bells. With a fresh lid and shading on the outer corner, the darker shading will add incredible dimension to the lids with a bit of lift and extension at the same time.)

Apply an off white, cream, or a pale milky pink to ¾ of your upper eyelid starting at the inner corner. Take the second darker color, and with a small brush shade the outer lid with your chin slightly lifted in the mirror (let them make their own breakfast). Shade from the outer corner inwardly. And for God sakes, line the top eyelid with some eyeliner liner to finish it!

EYELINER SEGWAY:

Do's

Do line just the top lash line.

or

Do line both top and bottom lash line.

Dont's

Don’t line just the bottom lash line - it drags the eye down, looks bottom heavy, and has the look of the top ten worst music videos of 1982.

Eye Make-up Technique 2A - Wide set wonders or slightly turned down / droopy eyes:
(This little classic design keeps the viewer focused at the center of your peepers, where the most flattering focal point of your eyes reside)

Apply a light to medium light, fresh color on you entire top lid. With a slightly fluffy, medium size crease brush, initiate the second, darker color in the middle of the eye socket. Rock the brush back and forth, creating a half moon in the crease area, slightly approaching the inner corner. Although the darkest color is traveling towards the inner corner, it must be delicate and tapered as it arrives. The finished eye contour must look centered detracting from the “ outward problem”.

Shopping for Colors

With regards to what colors to choose, the highlight colors mentioned early are neutral enough due to the fact that they are highlighters. My only caution is if you have pink lids because of veining or skin sensitivity, stay away from pink highlight shadows.

When choosing a dark contrasting color, there are many approaches. Here is one.

Choose an accent color that is opposite of your own eye color. The two colors side by side (your natural eye color and the eye shadow) intensify each other instead of competing. The opposite color doesn’t necessarily mean you work with it in its purest form. If you have blue eyes, I’m not suggesting you plaster your eyelids with pumpkin orange. You could choose a dynamic gray that has a breath of orange in it. Recognize the difference between classic shades (straight colors) and contemporary shades that contains nuances of a second supporting color whispering through.

Blue eyes: Try a “ browny orange “ the amount of orange may be extremely subtle but effective in popping those babies.

Hazel green eyes: Perhaps a pimento brown – this contains a subtle red undertone that is cooled & tamed by the dominating brown.

Hazel green eyes with yellow flex will dance when accompanied by grays & taupes that have a soft violet support.

Brown eyes: What shade of brown are you winking with? Do you see yellow brown? A speckle of green?

Once you determine the other supporting color that makes up the brown in your iris, grab the color wheel and go shopping. At the very least take this concept to the boutique or makeup studio with your next visit. Remember, there is always a little magic when opposition works harmoniously.

About the Author

Rob Closs is the founder and managing Director of The School of Professional Makeup, one of the premier makeup schools in Canada. The School of Professional Makeup offers courses in special effects, prosthetics, bridal makeup and fashion makeup. More information can be found on the school's makeup course calendar.

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